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Mineral Cosmetics and their Ingredients: Part one by Serjame Bayliss

Mineral cosmetics companies are popping up on the Internet everyday
with ingredients that are questionable as even being a pure mineral.
Take bismuth oxychloride, while being in the mineral realm.
Its a heavy metal and necessitates the constant buffing mineral
makeup companies advise to force it into the skin and pores to keep
it from sliding off your face. Over buffing of minerals can cause
irritation and continuing inflammation on sensitive skin types.
Further, it can make acne cystic by congesting pores and cause
rosacea to flare. It is a by-product of lead and copper refining.

Bismuth oxychloride commonly used as cheap filler. Thus major makeup
companies can make a larger profit by using it with a pure
pigment! The weight of this bi-product is heavy; of course it is
heavy, it has lead in it and lead does not belong on your skin!
Moving right along, please listen up, here is why even the former
laden chemical companies are using BO in major brands that are
now joining in on the mineral cosmetic market!

BO is the world's cheapest filler. In conclusion, don't buy products that
contain bismuth oxychloride in them, if you do your risking many
skin issues that can cause irritation, reading the ingredients in the
products that you buy is of the highest importance!!!
Please read all the ingredients of all mineral products and if the company
does not list ingredients, ask or by pass them altogether! My
research shows that over 40% of mineral cosmetic companies don't
even list any of there, ingredients online, however the FDA requires
one to print a label and place it on the bottom of any containers
shipping worldwide.

Here is a mineral cosmetic secret that few women know of, any product
that has 1% or less of any ingredients the FDA say it doesn't have to
be on a label! Consequently, companies don't list all of their
ingredients. Some of the major brands out there also use another so
to speak get out of jail free card by using these words (may contain
bismuth oxychloride) if it says may contain my research shows BO is
in your product. The exception to this rule is the use of (may contain
Kaolin Clay); there are products that don't contain kaolin clay,
however when making labels it's easier to just print may contain this
ingredient. My research does show this not to be true with BO as
this is a get out of jail card!

If a product does contain Ferric Ferrocyanide the FDA states it must be
listed on a label because this is often used in deep blues for eye
shadows. However ferric ferrocyanide is never safe on one's lips.
Since your lips can transfer this product in to your bloodstream also
Chromium Oxide Chromium Oxide Green is also not safe for your
lips.
Carmine (also called Crimson Lake) is safe for eye shadows,
and used in some lipsticks.

Some women have allergic reactions to Carmine: Cochineal is the name
of crimson or carmine dye and the cochineal insect (Dactylopius
coccus), a scale insect in the suborder Sternorrhyncha, from which
the dye is derived. Carmine used in mineral cosmetics eye shadows
as a rule are low in percentage of volume however it’s really a
choice for those who don’t like using any part of an insect on their
skin!

Pure minerals are just what the statements means. Please realize
there are many gimmicks out there, and I am only trying to
give you some insight on what is going on with the mineral cosmetics
of today! Because I am a research makeup artist I have
spent one year learning what it’s all about and what one should
divert their attention on and what to avoid. After all minerals are
good for your skin in many ways, however one can defeat their own
purpose of them when mislead with some commercials!!!

Pure minerals means no dyes or lakes like the chemical cosmetics have
and they should be without talc powder as many women have an
allergic reaction to talk. Natural pigments are used instead of dyes
or lakes or should I say should be used. There is no reason for a
true pure mineral to have any fillers. They should not have any of
the following ingredients in them: Magnesium Stearate a filler and
Zinc Stearate used to fight mold.

These products are not needed in loose minerals. However you will find
some of them in pressed powders. The most common minerals
found are Mica: A virtually neutral, transparent mineral that
transpire naturally in the earth's face and mined from all parts of the
world. When purified and crushed into fine powders which are
used in developing mineral makeup.

Titanium Dioxide: A naturally occurring mineral from the earth's surface.
Provides long-lasting coverage for mineral makeup
foundation, setting powders and provides a natural, broad-spectrum
UV protection. Anti-inflammatory properties and may calm skin and
prevent breakouts.
Which is good for your skin as a whole with its built in SPF 15.

Zinc Oxide: Anti-inflammatory with antimicrobial properties. It is the
broadest spectrum UVA and UVB absorber that’s approved for use
as a sunscreen by the FDA, and is completely photostable. It is also
a main ingredient of mineral cosmetics.

Iron Oxides: are the most commonly used pigment for coloring
cosmetics such as foundation and eye shadow. Mixing these three
groups of Iron Oxide in different ratios produces various skin colors.
Good formulators sometimes use Iron Oxide to correct
undertones of mineral cosmetics that delete casting hues to ones
skin tone.

Serecite: Fluffy translucent mica that may be used alone as a primer or
setting powder and offers a silky texture to foundations
and finalizes. Often used in mineral makeup formulas.

Ferric ferrocyanide: An organic pigment that provides blue tones to
natural mineral pigments. Not safe for lip use.

Kaolin Clay: A pure cosmetic powder that absorbs moisture, helps keeps
down shine, provides an opaque, white base for colors, and assists
with adherence to skin. Kaolin Clay is odorless, has a
smooth texture and often used in mineral makeup matte foundation
formulas.
You will note that most cosmetic companies add Kaolin Clay and Boron
Nitride when their products contains BO it will aid in adhesion to ones
skin! BO also creates a strong shine to your face and this is
unnatural in the over all look.

Boron Nitride: The different forms of boron nitride provide slip,
silkiness, adherence, and oil-absorption capabilities. Cosmetics
Boron Nitride (BN) powder is a primary raw material for a wide
range of cosmetic and skin care formulations, including foundations,
Concealers and lipsticks, and sunscreens. Some
advantages are increased adherence, smoother and softer feeling
products, improved spread ability, extended wear, soft-focus
properties oil absorption and to improve compressibility for pressed
powders. It also brings out pigments to a brilliant color and has a
positive effect on skin.

Rice Powder: A highly absorbent product stemmed from ground rice.
Absorbs both moisture and oils. Leaves a soft, silky feeling when
added to mineral makeup powders.

Mother-of-Pearl: Also know as Calcium Carbonate. Used as a whitener, oil
absorber and filler, this fine white powder occurs naturally in
marble, limestone, and oyster shells. Uses include pigment and
pigment extender in cosmetics, mineral makeup, and as whitener in
toothpastes. The use of Mother-of- pearl is often used in pearly
eye shadows. It is also often used as another filler, however in small
amount of use it can make a unique look in cosmetics.

Pressed powders versus loose minerals: To press a powder a
chemical must be added to compress it to a solid form. Here is the
negative pressed powders can have, whenever you add a chemical
to a mineral there is the chance of bacteria being put in it. The
amount of product is also lessened, as the containers are compact in
size. The product has been altering to micro size. I will talk more
about micro products in another article. The only positive I can say
are pressed powders are less messy and are easier to carry around
with you!

Pure Loose Minerals never have additives: Pure means just that a process
of advanced machinery the minerals go through. This means
to you the consumer that loose minerals never need any
paraben whatever, and even better yet you get what you pay for! While
loose minerals never clog your pores, they can be reapplied as often
as needed without ever giving you a caking feeling on your face.

Loose minerals do need a quality kabuki brush for their application and
yes a little messier but worth it in the long run. For the best result
swirl, a small amount of your loose minerals, angle your kabuki
brush and swirl into the lid until all the minerals have been tucked
into the bristles. Tap away excess. There should be no visible
mineral on the outside the brush. Buff the minerals into the skin in a
circular motion, starting on the outside your face near your
cheekbone, swirling as you go. Buff around your face and then
approach your forehead, cheeks, and nose.

Here ends part one.

Summary:
This article is about the mineral cosmetics and what you should be aware
as being harmful ingredients as well as the pros and cons of
pressed powder and loose minerals. You will learn what to avoid and
some important information on minerals and there use!


Serjame is a research makeup artist with over 40 years in his field. He is
the author of the Bible of makeup application and now has his own
private mineral cosmetic line with pure minerals.
Copyright Sir James AKA Serjame Bayliss 2008
www.mineralbrushes.com

This article was published on Sunday 08 February, 2009.
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